When planting trees, first thing you need to consider before selecting a location is the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you may be tempted by all the different species that are available, take care to choose carefully, especially if you have the average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.

It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting an adult tree is difficult and may be expensive if done professionally. This could justify the expense, however, if a mature tree is badly necessary for a terrace or for screening. Everything you are paying or is the time it takes an inferior tree to mature.

https://www.theedgesearch.com/2022/06/tree-pruning-everything-you-need-to-know.html to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall. You can plant trees completely leaf using wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss before roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in early spring.

When planting a tree over 6 feet high, it'll suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.

Because the root system needs fertile soil when it's planted, special steps ought to be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider compared to the full spread of the roots in each direction. Underneath should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly mixed with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.

Manure can be used sparingly and really should only be spread at the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the better for the tree. Once planted, you can cultivate around it but not under the roots. In the event that you hit a layer of creating debris or clay, that is never uncommon near a house, you must remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or on top of that, garden humus.

When you are planting a bare root seedling, you will need to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it may be kept before planting given that it is dormant.


This implies laying it on its side at an angle to the bottom and within the roots with good soil. When you are ready to go on it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and in addition from any air pockets which might exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to settle the soil in the bottom; when this has drained away, place the tree in the position in which it really is to grow and fill in the soil around it.

Work the soil round the roots utilizing a stick or shovel handle, and be sure there are no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at round the same depth as its former location. When the hole is two-thirds, of just how full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Fill in the rest of the soil without tramping it down, so the water will drain towards the trunk.

A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one that has been dug with a solid ball of soil in which it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held set up by a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.

If the bottom is dry, fill the hole with water and allow it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the very top once you put the tree in place, and roll it back several inches. You will plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.

Following the tree is planted it is possible to cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the initial year, the more cultivation around the tree the higher, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall will help keep the moisture in the ground.