When planting trees, the very first thing you need to consider before choosing a location may be the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you may be tempted by all the different species that are available, take care to choose carefully, especially if you have the average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.

It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting an adult tree is difficult and can be expensive if done professionally. This could justify the trouble, however, if a mature tree is badly needed for a terrace or for screening. Everything you are paying or is the time it takes an inferior tree to mature.

The optimum time to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall. It is possible to plant trees completely leaf with the aid of wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss until the roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in planting season.

When planting a tree over 6 feet high, it'll suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.

Because the root system needs fertile soil when it is planted, special steps ought to be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider than the full spread of the roots in each direction. The bottom should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly blended with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.

Manure can be used sparingly and should only be spread on the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the higher for the tree. Once planted, it is possible to cultivate around it but not under the roots. In the event that you hit a layer of building debris or clay, which is never uncommon near a residence, you must remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or better still, garden humus.

In case you are planting a bare root seedling, you will need to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it may be kept before planting provided that it is dormant.

This implies laying it on its side at an angle to the ground and within the roots with good soil. If you are ready to take it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and in addition from any air pockets which may exist round the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to settle the soil in the bottom; when this has drained away, place the tree in the position in which it really is to grow and complete the soil around it.

Work the soil around the roots utilizing a stick or shovel handle, and make certain you can find no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at around the same depth as its former location. Once the hole is two-thirds, of just how full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Complete the remaining soil without tramping it down, in order that the water will drain towards the trunk.

A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one that has been dug with a solid ball of soil where it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held set up by a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.

If the ground is dry, fill the hole with water and allow it soak in before planting. Cut tree care services at the very top when you put the tree set up, and roll it back a few inches. You will plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.


Following the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the initial year, the more cultivation round the tree the better, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall can help keep the moisture in the bottom.