When planting trees, the first thing you need to consider before selecting a location may be the mature height and spread of the tree. If you could be tempted by all of the different species that are available, take the time to choose carefully, particularly if you have the average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.

It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting an adult tree is difficult and may be costly if done professionally. It may well justify the expense, however, in case a mature tree is badly necessary for a terrace or for screening. What you are paying or is the time it takes an inferior tree to mature.

The best time to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall. You can plant trees completely leaf using wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss before roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in early spring.

When planting a tree over 6 feet in height, it'll suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.

Because the root system needs fertile soil when it is planted, special steps ought to be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider compared to the full spread of the roots in each direction. Underneath should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly mixed with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.

Manure can be utilized sparingly and should only be spread at the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the higher for the tree. Once planted, it is possible to cultivate around it however, not under the roots. If you hit a layer of creating debris or clay, which is not at all uncommon near a house, you need to remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or on top of that, garden humus.

Should you be planting a bare root seedling, you will want to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it could be kept before planting so long as it is dormant.

This implies laying it on its side at an angle to the bottom and covering the roots with good soil. While you are ready to go on it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and also from any air pockets which may exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to stay the soil at the bottom; when it has drained away, place the tree in the positioning in which it really is to grow and fill in the soil around it.

Work the soil round the roots using a stick or shovel handle, and be sure there are no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at round the same depth as its former location. Once the hole is two-thirds, of just how full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Complete tree surveys Lancaster remaining soil without tramping it down, so the water will drain towards the trunk.

A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one that has been dug with a good ball of soil where it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held in place by way of a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.

If the ground is dry, fill the hole with water and allow it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the very top once you put the tree in place, and roll it back a few inches. You will plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.

Following the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the initial year, the more cultivation round the tree the higher, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall can help keep the moisture in the ground.